After the Kujukushima cruise, I continued inland to Takeo Onsen. The afternoon brought old bathhouses, a garden beneath Mifuneyama and teamLab installations inside a hotel. Back at OND, a misplaced bag, a run and dinner led to an unexpected walk to see fireflies.
A rental car let me explore Hirado and Ikitsuki at my own pace, from trading history and a tea-shop welcome to fishing harbors and quiet island roads. Back in Sasebo, shipyard cranes caught the evening light. The next morning, I saw Kujukushima from the water.
Rain shaped my first full day in Nagasaki, from the Gunkanjima Digital Museum to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Memorial Hall. Clearer weather brought Dejima, Chinese trading streets and hillside views before I followed Omura Bay north to Sasebo.
The journey began at 4:30 in Basel and continued through London and Haneda to Nagasaki. Between flights, there was time for a bath and a walk. By evening, I was looking across Nagasaki Bay from the hotel, with the long travel day behind me.
A little over two weeks took me through northwestern Kyushu and back to Tokyo. Before setting off, I planned a route around Nagasaki, Sasebo, Takeo and Fukuoka, with time for ceramics, baths, friends and a concert in Yokohama.
These last Tokyo days were filled with reunions, errands, food and one more outing into nature. From Shinjuku’s side streets and eel in Yanaka to Mitake-san and a final sento before Haneda, this was how the trip came to a close.
After nearly two weeks traveling across northern Japan, Kyoto offered a brief return to familiar ground. Between food halls, tonkatsu, the new Nintendo Museum, and an evening catching up with an old friend, the city served as a short but meaningful stop before the final days of the trip in Tokyo.
In Kanazawa we combined early seafood breakfasts at Omicho Market with one of Japan’s best landscape gardens. When the weather forced us indoors, the modern Prefectural library fit perfectly, and the day ended with a sake tasting and a private kaiseki dinner.
Sado Island, off the coast of Niigata, let us experience the gold rush, a ride in barrel shaped boats and remote island lifestyle. Sado combines raw nature, cultural heritage, and a 400 year gold mine on an expansive island.
A modern hotel set among harvested rice fields on the Shonai Plain became our base before heading into the cedar forests of Dewa Sanzan. This stretch of Yamagata offered architecture, nature, and centuries of mountain worship. The day was complete with the sunset on the Japan Sea and arrival in Niigata.
Rain set the pace in Kakunodate as we walked the samurai streets, moved between old houses, and stayed the night on the former bukeyashiki road. After plans to climb Mount Chokai fell through, we discovered Karamatsu Shrine deep in the trees, before ending the day along the coast at sunset.
Lake Tazawa, Dakigaeri Valley, and Nyuto Onsen are close on the map, therefore we did not drive long this day. From the deepest lake in Japan and its Nessie-like legend to forested valleys, the route ends at a secluded mountain hot spring, one of the most profound I have visited.
Red leaves, white snow, hot spring steam, and a former copper mine. This part of the trip moved between the extremes. From fall in Morioka to winter in Akita’s mountains, including a stay at remote Goshogake Onsen on the peaks of Hachimantai and a visit deep underground at Osarizawa Mine.
These days were active with hikes on Hakkōda-san’s snowy trails, along Oirase Gorge with moss and waterfalls, and quiet moments in the Hoshinoya resort hotel and around Lake Towada. We experienced Aomori with a strong local apple theme throughout.
Aomori was where the trip truly began. Meeting up with three Swiss friends kicked off the two-week road trip across Tohoku. Long drives, beautiful nature and shrines, calligraphy, and surprise encounters replaced trains and crowds, setting the tone for everything that followed.